How and When to Use Epoxy When You Restore/Paint a Piece of Furniture. #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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Epoxy Putty is a great option when repairing wooden furniture especially if you need to fix a small area on a piece of furniture that has chipped off or that is missing a piece of wood.

Step 1: Clean the surface. You want to make sure the area that you’re applying the Epoxy Putty to is free of any dirt build-up or grease. 

Step 2: Sand the area down with a coarse sandpaper to give it some “teeth” to grab onto.

Step 3:  Break off the amount of putty that you are going to use, knead it through your fingers until the putty is a uniform color and once its mixed well you firmly press it and form it to the piece of wood.  You have about 20 minutes to work with it, which is nice because you don’t have to rush through the process.

Step 4: The epoxy putty acts like wood once it has cured, which takes about an hour. After that you may sand, drill, file or paint the Epoxy putty as needed. When the time comes to paint, make sure you check out my favorite brushes!!

Again, Epoxy putty is a great option if you need to fix a small piece molding or wood that has chipped off of your furniture. It can also be used on interior and exterior surfaces which is a plus in my book!  It has a little bit of a smell, but it’s not too bad overall.  I really like it because it’s user friendly and costs less than $10 for a tube.

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other Tuesday for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Thanks again!

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How To Build Your Own Cabinet Door Paint Spray/Dry Rack #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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DIY Cabinet Door Spray & Dry Rack Tutorial:

Planning on painting your kitchen or bathroom cabinets? Or maybe a piece of furniture or a built-in shelving unit that has a lot of doors? I recommend making a drying rack (and/or spray rack) to save yourself hundreds of dollars and tons of space during the process. Check out my video below for a step-by-step-tutorial!

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How to Accurately Measure Hardware Holes on Furniture & Cabinets #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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This week I am going over a very basic and simple furniture restoration tip, because believe it or not, a lot a people incorrectly measure the distance between the hardware holes on furniture and/or cabinets. 

Have you ever seen a piece of furniture that has holes showing beside the new hardware or two knobs beside each other instead of a cup or pull because the person didn’t measure or know how to measure before they bought the new hardware?  I cannot tell you the number of times I have been in a hardware or craft store and observed a person looking at the cups and pulls “stumped” because they didn’t realize there was more than one size. Don’t worry, I promise I helped them and didn’t leave them hanging.  Hey, if I was not in this business, I’m not sure I would have known either! Unfortunately, they have to go back home, measure the holes and then make another trip back to the store before making their purchase.  You can always take off one of the current pieces of hardware and bring it with you too!

So, how do measure the hardware holes correctly?  Watch the video above to see the full process.  If you want to start fresh so you do not have worry about the size,  click HERE for a tutorial on how to fill hardware holes in wooden furniture.  Also,  if you decide to paint the piece of furniture or cabinets that you are replacing the hardware on, make sure you use a Zibra Paint brush for the smooth application!!

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon!  Make sure you tune in every other Tuesday for a new tip!  If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere.  Thanks again!

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How to Paint Perfect Lines on Furniture. #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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Step 1:  Make sure your base is dry. I typically wait at least 24 to 48 hours after I have applied my last coat of paint on my piece of furniture. The gray color I used for my base color is Driftwood by General Finishes with my Zibra fan brush.

Step 2:  Measure and lay down three (or more) pieces of painter’s tape depending on how wide you want your line to be.   I recommend using blue and orange painter’s tape made by 3M because it is made specifically for delicate surfaces, such as a newly painted piece of furniture.  It is designed to decrease the chances of pulling off any paint that was recently applied.

Step 3:  Pull up middle piece(s) of tape.  Apply pressure and glide your finger along the two pieces of tape that are still on your furniture.  By doing this, it will eliminate any raised areas that would allow the paint to pool or gather underneath the tape.

Step 4:  Use the color that you originally painted your piece with and paint in-between those two pieces of tape with your Zibra Triangle or Square Brush. By using the original color first, it seeps into the crevices and grain of the wood instead of the color you will use to paint your line. See video tutorial above.  If you are painting a line on a stained or raw piece of furniture, apply a coat of polyurethane instead of color.

Step 5:  Once the paint is dry, use your Zibra Triangle or Square brush and paint over what you just painted with the new color that you want your line to be. The white color I used in the video is Crinoline by Country Chic Paint. Make sure you use the code MARKETHOUSE10 to receive 10% off your Country Chic Paint order!

Step 6:  Letting the paint dry well in between, apply as many coats as necessary to get the desired look you want.

Step 7:  After your last coat, wait approximately 5 to 10 minutes and then pull the two pieces of tape off of your furniture.  You want to pull the pieces of tape off when the paint it still a little tacky, not when the paint is completely dry.

Step 8:  Seal your piece/lines with the top coat of your choice using the Zibra Chiseled Wedge.  I recommend 3 coats of a water-based polyurethane. If you would like to see a video on how I apply poly with this brush, click HERE.

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other Tuesday for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Thanks again!

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How to use Howard Restor-A-Finish on the Outside of Your Furniture. #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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I’ve mentioned before that Howard Restor-A-Finish is great for bringing the inside of you wooden furniture back to life, but it’s also great for restoring the outside of your furniture!

I love to use Howard Restor-A-Finish on the legs and top of my furniture, or really any areas where I would typically use a stain.  If the wood seems to be pretty dry, this is a great option instead of using stain because it tends to even out well and not cause blotchy spots to appear.  This product helps restore the original finish while also getting rid of any blemishes or minor scratches.

What I love about it is that you do not have to remove the previous stain if you don’t want to.  I did, however, remove the previous stain on these legs because the previous finish was peeling off. 

You can apply Howard Restor-A-Finish with a shop towel, foam brush or steel wool.  About 30 minutes after the finish has dried, you will want to apply Howard’s Feed and Wax to protect it.  This brings out a beautiful sheen and shines up the area a little bit.  It also helps protect and maintain the finish.  Just make sure you do not put a poly on it because it will pull the finish off.

Howard Restor-A-Finish comes in many different colors. I used Mahogany on this particular piece but they also offer: Neutral, Maple-Pine, Golden Oak, Cherry, Walnut, Dark Walnut and Ebony Brown.

If you want to learn how to use Howard Restor-A-Finish on the inside of your furniture, click HERE to watch my #TuesdayTipsWithFallon video on that topic!

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How to Glue and Fix Hard-To-Reach-Areas on Furniture. #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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It can be frustrating when you have a nice piece of furniture but the veneer is popping up. The area underneath the veneer is hard reach with a regular glue bottle and sometimes if you try too hard to fix it, it will cause the veneer to chip off or break. I discovered a few years ago that these syringes at the perfect trick to solving this problem! Watch the video below to see how I use it.

When it comes time to paint, make sure you use a Zibra Paint brush for a smooth application!!

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How to Easily Fix Broken Drawer Stops On Your Wooden Furniture #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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Haha - goodness! Now that you’re past the video and bloopers, I have written out the process below to make it easy for you to follow.

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How to fix wooden drawer stops:

As you can see in the picture, the drawer stop is missing which causes the drawer to push back too far in the dresser. Sometimes this can cause the drawer to fall out or cave in.

This is very common in vintage and antique wooden furniture, but there is a quick and easy way to fix this problem with a paint stirrer!

Step 1:

Measure the paint stirrer to match the length of one of the drawer stops that is currently on the furniture.

Step 2:

Clamp the paint stirrer to a table and cut off the area that you marked on your paint stirrer. I like to use a coping saw, but you can use whatever works best for you.

Step 3:

Glue the piece that you cut-off with Titebond and place it on the old nail hole and/or around location that the broken drawer stop came off of. Clamp the piece down so it dries well.

Step 4:

Make sure the location is okay and your new drawer stop doesn’t move. Once the glue is nice and dry I like to paint the drawer stop so it blends well with the rest of the piece.

That’s it! This such is an easy way to fix drawer slides without spending too much money or time on them. It also give your piece a more complete and professional look in the end!

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other week for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. hanks again! Happy Fixing!!

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How to PREVENT Milk Paint From Chipping When Painting a Piece of Furniture. #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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Welcome to the second part of my milk paint series. Previously, I showed you how to mix powered milk paint to make it easy for application. Last week, I gave you some suggestions on how to make milk paint “chippy” and this week, I am going to show you how to prevent it from chipping

Again, authentic/powered milk paint has a mind of its own and can be unpredictable, but you can maneuver it a little bit with practice.

As I mentioned in last week’s blog post, I feel like it is important to keep in mind that “chipping” is different than distressing. Distressing is intentionally done by hand. It is when you take a piece of sandpaper and run it across or over the edges of a painted piece of furniture to show the color or wood that is underneath. Chipping, however, is done by the paint. It is when the paint on your furniture comes off in the form of a flake or it bubbles (gets air between the paint and the piece of furniture), which allows it to easily come off with a scrubbing pad or a 220 grit piece of sandpaper.

Watch the video below and see the written examples under this video.

How to prevent powered milk paint from chipping when painting a piece of furniture:

Suggestion 1: Paint the milk paint on a raw piece of wood/furniture. This allows the paint to stick really well because there is not a barrier in-between the wood and the paint.

Suggestion 2: Clean your piece of furniture really well by degreasing, deglossing and sanding it, so the paint sticks directly to the wood. With that being said, if you use milk paint on a brand new, raw piece of furniture, it should not chip since there is no barrier or product between the wood and the paint.

Suggestion 3: Most milk paint companies offer a product called a “bonding agent” which is basically a glue that you are mixing into the paint to help it stick. This does NOT seal the milk paint, it only helps it bond to the piece of furniture better to decrease the likeliness of it chipping.  You typically add two parts paint and one part of the bonding agent, however, if you add a little extra bonding agent, it doesn’t hurt anything!

When it comes time to paint, make sure you use a Zibra Paint brush for the smooth application! I am using the 2” Palm Pro in the video. If you’re curious to know what type of Milk Paint I like to use, I recommend Shackateau Interiors Milk Paint!

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other Tuesday for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Thanks again!

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How to Get the "Chippy" Look When Painting a Piece of Furniture. #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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Previously on another #TuesdayTipsWithFallon I did a tutorial on how to mix powered milk paint to make it easy for application. Now, I am going to show you how to control it once it has been applied.  Milk paint has a mind of its own and can be unpredictable, but you can maneuver it a little bit with practice.

Since I get a lot of questions about milk paint, I thought I would do a 2 part series on this topic. I am going to give you some suggestions on how to help milk paint “chip” during this week’s #TuesdayTipWithFallon and next week I am going to show you how to prevent it from chipping. While it is not necessary to perform any of these suggestions, at least you will have a list ways to help if you’re going for a certain look.

It is important to keep in mind that “chipping” is different than distressing. Distressing is intentionally done by hand. It is when you take a piece of sandpaper (or tool of choice) and run it across or over the edges of a painted piece of furniture to show the color or wood that is underneath. Chipping, however, is done by the paint. It is when the paint on your furniture comes off in the form of a flake or it bubbles (when air or a product gets between the paint and the piece of furniture), which allows it to easily come off with a scrubbing pad or a 220 grit piece of sandpaper.

Watch the video below and see the written examples under this video.

How to make powered milk paint chip:

Suggestion 1:     Lightly clean the surface of the furniture, but do not clean off the gloss. The gloss causes a barrier between the piece of furniture and the paint, which “hopefully” helps it chip. Sometimes this works and sometimes and doesn’t, but I personally think it is worth a shot to try this option first!

Suggestion 2:      Use a hair dryer or heat gun to dry the paint. This will help the paint chip. Also, if you place a hair dryer directly over the milk paint it will help it to “craze” as we call it in the painting world, which is similar to a crackle effect.

Suggestion 3:.      Use a space heater while painting and when the paint is drying.  I discovered this by accident a few year ago. It was starting to get cold in my garage so I placed a small heater towards the paint as it was drying and it caused it to chip really well.  I thought it was a fluke, so I tried it again and it worked again! It was awesome. 

Suggestion 4:      Direct sunlight. This is a great option if it is really hot out. Paint your piece in the direct sun light and let it hit the paint while it is drying.  Don’t keep it out there too long though, because you don’t want the sun to warp the wood. Just keep it in the direct sunlight until the paint is dry.

Suggestion 5:      Wax sporadically by putting clear wax on the piece so that the paint does not adhere in that area.

When it comes time to paint, make sure you use a Zibra Paint brush for the smooth application! I am using the 2” Palm Pro in the video. If you’re curious to know what type of Milk Paint I like to use, I recommend Shackateau Interiors Milk Paint !

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other Tuesday for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Thanks again!

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How to Remove Veneer From Furniture. #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

Removing veneer. Ugh! Everyone in the refinishing and painting world dreads it, but listen, sometimes it just has to be done! In the video above I have shown you how I like to remove veneer. Trust me, I have tried all of the methods out there, more than once, but in the end this is the method I personally like best. Honestly, any method you try isn’t going to magically take off the veneer, unless for some reason the veneer has been doused in water for many, many years….but then you’re going to have a moisture problem in the wood. Just keep that in mind.

When trying to remove veneer each piece of furniture tends to react differently, but the wet towel method that I explained in the video (and below) is the most consistent method for me. After you go through the wet towel process, use a metal paint scraper and hammer to chip away the stubborn glue and left over veneer pieces that are still stuck to the piece. Make sure you always wear protective gloves and safety glasses! It can be a lot of work, but it will eventually all come off in the end. Just be careful not to dent the wood when you’re hammering the paint scraper. Sometimes the veneer comes off in a few large pieces and other times it comes off in 57,239,208 pieces.. Your ultimate goal is to make the process easier. Below I have listed the most common ways to remove veneer from a piece of furniture.

1. Paint scraper and hammer: To only use a paint scraper and hammer is rare, but once in a blue moon, you can get away with just scrapping and pulling off the old veneer.

2. Wet towel: This is the method I prefer. Grab a thick towel (not a thin shop towel) and soak it in hot water. Ring out some of the water so that the towel is not dripping wet. Place towel on the veneer for at least 8 hours. I recommend letting sit overnight and/or up to 24 hours if you can. By placing the wet towel on the veneer, you are basically causing the veneer to go through the same process that caused the veneer to start coming off in the first place, which is moisture.

3. Wet towel and hot iron: This is the same as the wet towel method I mentioned above, but instead of just removing the towel at the end of its elapsed time, you place a hot iron on the towel for about 30 to 45 seconds to help loosen the glue. HOWEVER, from my personal experience, you’re actually melting the glue! I have always had a hard time trying to remove the glue once it has been re-melted onto the wood that is underneath the veneer. I prefer the glue be hard so I can sand it off with my orbital sander.

4. Heat gun: Okay, so this just flat out scares me. I’m not going to lie. I have tried this method a few times and maybe it gets better, but from my experience it’s always a “hot” mess…literally.

5. Hair dryer: I recommend using a hair dryer on the edges to help the veneer get “started” if it isn’t already popping up. If the wet towel method did not cause the edges to rise on their own, hold a hairdryer above the edge of the veneer for 15 to 20 seconds or long enough to get your paint-scraper up underneath the veneer. You can continue to use the hair dryer from here, but again, it tends to melt the glue instead of helping it become loose, which can cause more frustration in the end.

Once you are doing removing all of the veneer, use an orbital sander to remove any leftover glue and/or small chipped pieces of veneer. If you did not use a heat gun, steam iron or hairdryer on a majority of the piece, the leftover glue should sand off easily because it is dry. I recommend starting with 40-60 grit sandpaper and then moving up to 120-150 to smooth out the wood. Be careful not to get swirls in the wood when you do this. When it comes time to paint, make sure you use a Zibra Paint brush for a smooth application!!

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other Tuesday for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Thanks again!

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How to Mix Milk Paint. #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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Mixing authentic milk paint can be intimidating because it comes in the form of a powder. I remember when I first started using it I was asking myself, “How do I know if I am adding too much water? Should there be lumps in the paint? Should I mix the whole bag at once? What should the temperature of the water be?” So, to save you time (and money) I have put together a tutorial to help! Watch below!

When it comes time to paint, make sure you use a Zibra Paint brush for the smooth application! I am using the 2” Palm Pro in the video. If you’re curious to know what type of Milk Paint I like to use, I recommend Shackateau Interiors Milk!

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other Tuesday for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Thanks again!

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How to Clean Your Paint Brush. #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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Cleaning your paint brush is extremely important to extend the life of the brush and to help provide you with a nice clean slate the next time you use it. As soon as I am done painting for the day, I wash my Zibra paint brushes.

If you haven’t already watched the video above, I recommend you do so. I would also like to provide you with the Brush Care information that Zibra provides on their packaging. “Remove excess paint with brush, comb, or tool. Clean with warm water and detergent. If needed, rinse with mineral spirits and re-clean with detergent. Shake out excess water and place into brush package to let dry and retain shape until next use.”

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other Tuesday for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Thanks again!

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How to use the Zibra 2" Palm Pro to paint furniture. #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

The Zibra 2” Palm Pro brush is one of the brushes I use the most often because it is so handy and versatile!  It gives you a lot of coverage on flat surfaces while also giving you a precise and accurate cut-in.  As Zibra describes the Palm Pro it is, “The Only Brush Designed to be an EXTENSION OF YOUR HAND! Palm Pro’s unique design allows your hand and fingers to relax producing maximum control and comfort.” 

With comfort, comes control and with control comes a nice clean and smooth finish.  Not to mention the soft synthetic bristles that help create that beautiful finish! Make sure you watch the video above to see the brush in action.

Each Zibra Brush is made with a smooth bristle technology unlike a conventional bristle brush. It can be used with all types of paint mediums and stains and you only need soap and water to clean it up (as long as you used a water based paint).

The Zibra 2” Palm Pro is a great price, too. For example, this brush typically costs around $12, which is hard to beat for a brush of this quality! If you are interested in trying one, they are available at Lowes, Home Depot or Woodcraft, or you may purchase it through my affiliate link on Zibra’s website and have it sent to your doorstep! You won’t be disappointed!!

I would also like to mention that the beautiful green color I paint with in the video is, Fireworks, by Country Chic Paint. Just enter the code MARKETHOUSE10 and you will receive 10% off anything you order from the Country Chic Paint website!

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other Tuesday for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Thanks again!

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How To Test For Lead Paint. #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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Before we get started, if you haven’t already watched the video above, I encourage you to do so. Watch it until the end so that you can see the difference. Make sure you read the information below, too. This one was a little tricky!

If you’re thinking about painting, restoring or refinishing furniture you need to be aware of lead paint.  Lead paint is okay from a distance but if you plan on messing with it by sanding, stripping, or trying to remove it you need to be aware that dust can be very hazardous to you, those around you, and also to the environment.

In 1978, the use of lead was banded from being manufactured in painting products. However, lets be honest, there were probably a few cans laying around that people still used, so I like to be safe and take caution if anything was painted before 1980.  Some people may think I am ridiculous, but that’s okay because it’s my health that I have to live with and I want you to be safe too!!

The first step is being able identity lead paint.  You can purchase an instant in-home lead testing kit for $5 to $10 at your local hardware or home-improvement store.  The test will detect lead on painted wood, metal, vinyl and plastic as well as drywall and plaster. I recommend testing a few different spots on your piece. Keep in mind, since the swab turns red when the paint is positive for lead, if you’re testing red or pink paint it will show up as a false-positive.  It is also important to keep in mind that in-home testing kits cannot detect lead under some conditions, so the safest route is to call in someone with special training if you want to remove it.

What do you do if your piece has lead paint?  It’s up to you. I personally do not mess with pieces that are covered in lead paint.  While a piece with lead paint is “normally” okay if you don’t stir up dust and/or cause any further chippings, it’s just not worth it to me to take any chances.

Removing lead paint can cause more problems than leaving it intact. If you do not plan on taking off any of the current lead paint and/or stirring up any of the dust, you can directly apply Shellac over it to try and seal it in if you want to try and use the piece.  I recommend applying a few coats of Shellac or pigmented Shellac because oil based isn’t easy to work with and I don’t think water based primer will work as well in this case. It may be fine, these are just my thoughts!  You can also paint over it after the Shellac has dried well, but it may not give you the nice smooth finish you were hoping for.  If you do decide to use Shellac and/or paint the piece as-is, make sure you wear a heavy duty, full facepiece, respirator mask, and gloves and stay in well ventilated area.   Either way, make sure it’s not a piece you are going to eat off of such as a kitchen table or a piece of furniture that is going to be in a kid’s room. In fact, I recommend you put it somewhere that isn’t going to get a lot of traffic, just to be extra safe.

If for some reason a piece of the lead paint chips off, do not vacuum up the dust or chippings because the lead can be released into the air when it’s turned on again.  You also need to make sure it disposed of correctly.  Please note, I am not “Lead-Safe Certified” so make sure you check your state regulations and/or turn the job over to someone that specializes and is certified in the removal of lead paint.

If you can’t do that or do want to pay someone to professional handle it, then move on.  Your health is more important!!

Check out the epa.gov/lead/renovation-repair-and-painting-program-do-it-yourselfers website for more information on the safety of lead paint.

If you decide to paint, make sure you use my favorite Zibra paint brushes !

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other Tuesday for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Thanks again!

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How To Strip Paint Off Wooden Furniture #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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Before you get started make sure you are not removing lead paint.  You can purchase a Lead Test Kit HERE.. You also want to make sure you’re in a well ventilated area, and to be extra safe I recommend wearing protective gloves and a mask.

How to strip paint of your wooden furniture:

1. Apply a thick coat of CitriStrip onto the painted area with an old brush. Do not use a foam brush because it will deteriorate.

2. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes. If you feel like it’s necessary you can keep it on for up to 24 hours.

*Optional: You can put a layer of Saran Wrap (or a plastic bag, trash bag, grocery bag, etc.) over top of the CitriStrip if you are in a very humid or dry area. This will keep the product from drying out and allow it to work longer.

3. Scrap off the paint/stripper with a plastic putty knife.  If you use a metal knife it may dent or scratch the wood if you’re accidentally too harsh during the removal process.

4. Repeat steps 1 – 4, if necessary.

5. Once you are satisfied with the removal of the paint, clean the sticky residue off with Paint Stripper After Wash. You can purchase this product at your local hardware store, Lowes or The Home Depot.

6. Let the Paint Stripper After Wash dry really well.

7. Sand your piece with 220 grit sandpaper.

8. Wipe off or vacuum the sanding dust.

9. Clean with Mineral Spirits.

10. Let the Mineral Spirits dry and then begin painting.

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other Tuesday for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Thanks again!

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How to Line Drawers with Paper. #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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This is one of those questions I get asked a lot! “Fallon, how do you line your drawers or can you do a tutorial on how to line wooden drawers with paper?” So, here ya go!

The key to make sure you are using a high quality, thick paper, because it makes the process so much easier!

Step 1: Flip your drawer over and cut the paper a slightly larger than the size of the drawer.

Step 2: Flip the drawer right-side-up and place the piece of paper into the drawer. Even though the size of the paper is larger than what you need, it gives you a good starting point without having to try and figure out how to trim down a huge piece of paper.

Step 3: Trim the edges until the paper fits perfectly into the drawer. I usually fold down the edges so I know where to cut. You can use a pair of sharp scissors, a paper cutter or you can use a rotary cutter. Just be careful when you’re working with these sharp items!

Step 4: Once the piece of paper fits well, it’s time to glue it down. I personally like to use a spray adhesive for larger pieces and Mod Podge for smaller pieces.  When I use spray adhesive, I spray it directly to the wood drawer. In the past when I sprayed the paper, instead of the drawer, it would cause the paper to wrinkle before I could get it situated in its place. When I use Mod Podge, I also apply it directly to the wood on the drawer to make sure all of the areas are covered well. Make sure you watch the video to see when I use spray adhesive vs. Mod Podge.

Step 5: Grab a plastic card (ie: credit card) and or the Mod Podge Tool that I used in the video and smooth out all of the bubbles.

Step 6: If necessary, place some heavy books on the paper for about 20 minutes, then take them off and smooth out the bubbles again with your fingers, not a plastic card because the paper might peel up. 

That’s it!

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other Tuesday for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Thanks again! Happy Lining!

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How To Remove Dark Stains On Wood. #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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It can be really frustrating when you discover a dark area on your furniture.  If you plan on re-staining the piece instead of painting it, this can be difficult because you have to figure out a way to blend the dark spot while still making the piece look nice. I originally planned on painting the top of the piece that you see in the video, but as I was prepping it, I saw a dark spot and I knew I had to stop and sand it all the way down so I could make it a #TuesdayTipsWithFallon tutorial.

A little over a year ago I discovered a great product by Liberon called Wood Bleacher.  It lightens naturally dark or damaged wood and doesn’t harm the wood in the process.  It removes dark spots caused by rust, alcohol, ink, damp spots and/or ring marks where perhaps a cup of water or a potted plant may have sat for many years.

Before you get started, since this product relies on chemical reactions, it’s important to test it on a small area to make sure the wood doesn’t resist the product. I suggest testing it on underside or backside of the wood.

Directions: 

Step 1:   Sparingly apply the wood bleacher with a brush (or applicator of choice) on the affected area.  Allow the product to dry, check the progress and if necessary, apply another coat.  You may have to repeat this process 2 or 3 more times depending on the severity of the stain.

Step 2: Once you are happy with the result, rinse the area with clean water 2 or 3 times.

Step 3: After the area is completely dry, sand the top of the whole piece so it blends well with the rest of the wood.

Step 4: Per the manufactures recommendations, water-based products may be effected by the wood bleacher. Just a personal preference, but I like using a dark stain to help cover up any leftover imperfections.

Now that you have fixed that dark area, you can stain your piece as planned. .

Check out the before and after below! Awesome, right!? Just as an FYI, the other dark spot that you see on the top of the piece (below and to the left of the stain) is an actual knot in the wood. This, of course, cannot be removed since it’s part of the wood.

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other Tuesday for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Happy Painting!!

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My Favorite Primer To Use When I Paint Furniture! #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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Primer is critical for a professional finish because it helps with adhesion and helps prevent tannins from bleeding through especially if you’re using a lighter color.  Primer helps with durability and can also help block out odors.

Over the years I have tried many different types of water-based and oil-based primers, but in the end it’s hard to beat Shellac.  I have used BIN religiously for about 3 years and it’s by far my favorite primer on the market. BIN Shellac by Zinsser (or Rust-oleum) is my absolute favorite.  It is a pigmented Shellac and can be used on whole surfaces or for small spot-priming.  While I have never actually done it, I just want to note that it is tintable for lighter colors.

The only downside to Shellac is that it has a little bit of a smell, it can be sticky if the weather isn’t perfect and it’s thinner than most paint mediums.  However, I personally don’t think the downsides outweigh the positives.  I like knowing that when the time comes to seal my pieces, I won’t have any bleed through.  I do recommend you wear a respirator mask and rubber gloves when working with Shellac and try to be in a well ventilated area, just to be safe!  

As far as the application process goes, I use a cheap brush or an old brush that I can toss.  I never use of my nice Zibra brushes!  I also like to roll it on with a 4” roller, so I can throw away the roller when I am done. Just keep in mind, if you use a foam roller, it can start to fall apart after a lot of use, due to the chemicals in Shellac. If you are working on a small project, a foam roller is fine! If you’re working on a larger project I recommend a microfiber roller.

In addition to preventing bleed through, BIN Shellac sticks to any surface without sanding.  It can be used inside or for spot-priming outside and it can also be used under-or-over any chalk, milk, latex or oil based paint.   It dries really fast, too.  Once applied, it dries to the touch in about 10 to 15 minutes.  Once it’s completely dry, I like to sand it with a 220 grit sandpaper before I apply my paint color to give it a super smooth finish.

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other week for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Thanks again! Happy Priming!!

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How To Prep/Paint Laminate Furniture! #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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This is a pretty common question that I get, so I thought I would show you how to paint laminate furniture today!

First, let’s start with understanding what laminate is.  Laminate is a smooth, non-porous product that is made to mimic the look of real wood.  It is basically a “picture” of wood that is been glued to particle/board or MDF with a clear protective layer on top of it.  Since laminate has a shiny surface and tends to be slick, it can be hard for paint to adhere correctly, so people tend to shy away from painting laminate because they are afraid the paint won’t stick.  Don’t worry though, you can make it work, just make sure you follow these steps before you paint over it.

Step 1:  Wipe down your surface with TSP.

Step 2:  Sand your surface, with 120 to 150 grit sandpaper.  Since laminate is non-porous, sanding breaks up surface and gives the paint the opportunity to adhere well by giving it something to grab on to.

Step 3: Vacuum or wipe off your piece really well to get all of the sanding dust off.

Step 4: I like to go the extra mile and clean my surface with Krud Kutter Gloss-Off just to make there is no extra shine, dirt or grime on the surface. I like to wipe off any access Gloss-Off to help speed up the drying process.

Step 5: About 10 minutes after the Gloss-Off has dried, add a bonding primer.  There are a lot of different primers out there, but it’s hard to beat Zinsser BIN Shellac Primer, in my opinion.

Step 6: Once the primer has had ample time to dry, go ahead and start painting!  Make sure you use a high quality furniture paint and a nice paint brush! After that, finish the project with a few coats of high-quality poly so that your finish will last for many years.

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other week for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Thanks again! Happy painting!!

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Use This Product on The Drawers of Your Wooden Furniture to Make Them Look Great Again! #TuesdayTipsWithFallon

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Howard Restor-A-Finish is a great option if you want to bring back the original color on the inside of your furniture! It helps blend any water marks, rings and/or dehydrated areas that may have occurred over the years. It’s simple to use and it gives your piece nice-looking and professional finish.

Thank you so much for stopping by for #TuesdayTipsWithFallon! Make sure you tune in every other week for a new tip! If you want to save this blog post, just pin it to your Pinterest page and/or feel free to share it elsewhere. Thanks again!

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